Documenting History

Yesterday’s tragic events in Paris serve as a reminder as to how fragile the places that we visit can be. Whether due to natural disasters or man-made events, many of the locations that we treasure can be damaged at some point in the future. The photographs that we, as travelers, capture can do more than just serve as a reminder of the time that we have spent in a place. Ultimately, some of these can serve to document the beauty of a place that perhaps may be lost in the future. Obviously, for extremely popular locations, there can be many photographs that exist to memorialize a location from many different perspectives. With that said, there are some places that are less frequented by travelers and tourists and the images that we capture and the experiences that we share serve not only to educate others about the location, but document them for future generations as well.

Great Pyramid of Giza
Approaching the Cliff Dwellings in Mesa Verde

Although it certainly isn’t are intention to take photographs for historical purposes when we travel, we have definitely seen a variety of places and been able to take photographs that we will treasure forever and that we share via our site. We have seen places like Tiwanaku riddled with bullet holes because the army used the statues for target practice. Walking along the Great Pyramids of Giza, you will find graffiti on the stones that have stood there for thousands of years. Acts of vandalism occur with some frequency around the world. Some of these are easily remedied and others take an effort that is either costly or time consuming.

Tower Bridge in London
Artifacts Found in Athens When Building a Subway Station

Hurricanes, tsunamis, floods, and other natural disasters have also changed places, both the buildings as well as the landscape, throughout the world. Having photographs before, during, and after such events allow us to truly understand the forces of nature and how the effect the world. Also, have you ever gone into a restaurant with photographs of a city from a hundred years ago up to the current day? We find those images fascinating and to be a visual timeline of a place. Whether intentional or not, all of us who travel and photograph the places that we visit are creating a visual documentation of those locations that can be shared for years to come.

Beloved Memories of Notre-Dame de Paris in 2007
Temple Statue in Tiwanaku, Bolivia

 

Incallajta – Bread Basket of the Inca

One of the tours that took while we were in Cochabamba, Bolivia, was to the ruins at Incallajta. They are some of the most well-preserved ruins in Bolivia and it really gives you a sense of how great the Incan civilization was.  Sadly, not a lot is known for sure about the site and it seems that it is not often visited by tourists.  The main temple building is massive and is probably an indication as to how important the site was to the Incan empire.  In addition to being a ceremonial site, it was also the easternmost defensive fortification for the Inca, with a large wall to protect them from the rival tribes in the Amazon.

View of the Ruins from Above
Building in Ruins
Our Guide, Remy
Us in the Temple

The area all around Incallajta is extremely fertile land, which is probably why it was so important to the Inca people.  Our guide, Remy, explained to us that much of the food for the empire was grown in this region, including the potatoes, strawberries, and quinoa.  We saw many farms all along the hills surrounding the ruins, with the farmers working the land on the steep hillsides in the same way that their ancestors had.  Food from the area was probably taken as far away as Machu Picchu and Tiwanaku.  We arrived at the entrance to the site where a Quechua woman watched us curiously from the office where we paid to tour the ruins.  From there we hiked up a trail through the trees until the first of the ruins became visible.

Farmland
Quechua Woman
Walking to the Ruins
First Glimpse of the Ruins

The entire site is almost overwhelming, there is so much to see and learn about the Inca people and the importance of Incallajta.  We walked along the stone walls, built with the same precision found in Tiwanaku, as Remy told us about the holes that were used by the soldiers to throw rocks at any approaching army.  Just as was the case with the castles of Europe, they built the holes at an angle so that spears and arrows couldn’t come through, protecting their warriors.  We hiked up to the area above the temples to see the soldiers barracks, very similar to a modern army of today.  As we hiked the steep hills, we had an appreciation to how good of shape these soldiers must have been in to walk the wall daily in defense of the empire.

The Stone Wall
Hole to Throw Stones
Hiking the Ancient Trails
Learning About the Area

The most impressive site at the ruins is the main temple, called kallanka.  Only the wooden roof and pillars a missing, making it the most interesting ruin that we saw while we were in Bolivia.  The large stone wall with the window-like ceremonial nooks where they would have likely had candles burning was absolutely amazing.  The temple is in such good condition that there are places where you can still see red plaster on top of the stone walls.  Outside of this communal temple was a large stone that has been worn smooth from all of the sacrifices that have taken place there in the past and apparently are still taking place today.

Main Wall of Kallanka
Plaster on the Wall
Inner Wall of the Temple
Sacrificial Stone

We climbed up to the top of an 3,300 meter (11,000 foot) hill that towers over the ruins to see the spectacular views of how vast the ruin site is.  It was a pretty tough hike and we were pretty winded by the time we reached the summit, but it was well worth the effort.  From the hills above, the massive size of kallanka was even more apparent than it was from standing within its walls.  Clearly, with such an important structure, this was a key city in the Inca empire.  Unfortunately, we may never know the true nature of things that occurred in Incallajta as there is no written records from the Inca, so the only things that we know for sure were written down by the Spanish who conquered them.

Looking Up to the Top
Building at the Top
Views from the Summit
The Scale of the Temple

We continued past several homes that are still standing, pausing to think about the inhabitants that must have lived within those walls.  Most likely they were ancient priests as they would have been the only ones to have such extravagant buildings for the time period.  From there we climbed down to the bottom of a waterfall and ate our lunch, grateful for the break from all of the hiking.  On our way out of the ruins, we climbed to the top of what is assumed to be an astronomical observatory of sorts.  From there, they would have marked the seasons and tracked the celestial movements across the sky.

Resting at the Waterfall
View from the Observatory
Home of a Priest
Another View of the Wall

It was a wonderful day walking among the magnificent ruins.  As was most often the case, it was just the three of us wondering through these spectacular buildings.  There doesn’t appear to be any current interest from universities to come and study the site, which seems completely baffling to us considering how truly interesting the ruins seemed to be to us.  If you’re in the Cochabamba area, we would definitely recommend taking the time to visit Incallajta and walk the footsteps of the ancient Inca warriors, priests, and farmers.

How Do You Like to Tour a Location?

There are usually options on how you can tour a location such as self-guided walking tours, group tours, or hiring a private guide. Even if you just read a guide book and walk the streets on your own, you are actually touring a location, it is just very casual. We have tried a variety of styles of touring and have probably done a combination of several styles on every trip. We don’t like being on a schedule, so we lean towards self-guiding ourselves through an area, but there are times when it requires a guide of some sort to really understand the history of a place.

Touring Florence on Our Own
  1. Self-Guided Tours – Whether you get a map and highlight the path that you want to follow or just pick a starting point and wander, self-guided touring is a very relaxing way to see a place. You can see what you want to see, decide how long you want to spend at a certain site, and stop for a bite to eat at a place that fits your style and budget. One of the downsides is that it is up to you to make sure that you have read all of the information to truly understand the history and interesting facts about a location. Also, there are often times when informational signs are only in the local language and if you are not fluent, you might miss out on some interesting facts.

    Group Tour in Amsterdam
  2. Group Tours – These can take on a variety of types of tours from hop-on, hop-off buses, river boat cruises, or group walking tours. These tours can be interesting depending upon the personality of the guide. It is often look this way, get a couple of sentences about it, and then you are off to the next site. If you are with a group of people who are truly interested in the place and have read a certain amount of information in advance, you can often learn interesting things based on the questions that are asked in addition to whatever information was on the guide’s script. The schedule is not your own, though, and you can sometimes end up spending more time in places that don’t interest you as much as perhaps it does others. Also, on walking tours, if you have people who decide to wander off to take pictures, you can find yourself standing around waiting for the group to regather.

    Private Tour in Bolivia
  3. Private Tours – Although you definitely pay a little bit more for private attention, there a many benefits to having a private tour guide. We have found them to be highly knowledgeable about the locations that you want to see and you have their complete attention to ask them questions that are of interest to you. Since the tour is private, the guides are usually willing to cater to your tastes, physical capabilities, and even potentially add things to the tour that might not have been in the original schedule. Obviously, the experience is completely dependent on the personality of the guide. If you are going to spend several hours with only yourselves and the guide, they better have a good personality or it will be the longest few ours of your trip.

    Learning from an Egyptologist in Luxor

There is no one-size fits all solution when it comes to touring a location and we have found that it often takes a mix to see a place from all of the different angles. If you are going to do a guided tour, be sure to negotiate the price in advance, especially if you are hiring a guide right at a specific site. You should also consider a tip and it should be reflective of the information that you received and the quality of the tour and the guide.