The Dohany Street Synagogue in Budapest

On June 17, 2019 By Isobar ExpeditionsIn Hungary3 Comments

The Dohany Street Synagogue, also known as the Great Synagogue, is certainly an important site to visit during any trip to Budapest, Hungary. There are many reasons to visit the synagogue including its size, architecture, and history. The synagogue complex is also home to the Hungarian Jewish Museum, Heroes’ Temple, Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park, and the Jewish Cemetery. There can be long lines to get into the Dohany Street Synagogue, but it is definitely worth the wait. You will undoubtedly walk away with a mix of emotions as it is haunting, sad, and yet a sense of human nature’s ability to overcome.

Along with Shoes Along the Danube Bank, walking through the Hungarian Jewish Museum is a stark reminder of how horrific the Jewish community was treated during World War II. The Dohany Street Synagogue is located in the Old Jewish Quarter of Budapest and was part of the Jewish Ghetto during the war. It is important for everyone to understand and remember the atrocities that occurred. In addition to the museum, the Jewish Cemetery, which would not normally be located next to the synagogue, is where over 2,000 people were buried toward the end of the war. There is a statue of a weeping willow in the Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park in the rear courtyard that has the names and tattoo numbers of those whose lives were lost there.

The inside of the Dohany Street Synagogue is truly quite beautiful. Built in the 1850’s in a Moorish design, the synagogue holds up to 3,000 worshipers making it the second largest synagogue in the world and the largest in Europe. The seats on the ground floor are for men and the upper gallery has seats for women. There is also an ornately decorated dome within the synagogue as well as large chandeliers above the center aisle. There are also gothic influences as well, including the stained glass windows that line the main chamber.

We spent about two hours touring the Great Synagogue and it is definitely worth at least that amount of time. There are also many wonderful restaurants and shops located in the Old Jewish Quarter, so you should also spend several hours wondering through the narrow side streets. The Dohany Street Synagogue is an important landmark in Budapest and Hungary in general. We visited on a rainy day, which made the experience even more impactful.

Matthias Church in Budapest, Hungary

On June 13, 2019 By Isobar ExpeditionsIn Hungary4 Comments

Located in the heart of the Buda Castle District in Budapest is the historic Matthias Church. The current church was built in the 1400’s in the Gothic architectural style, but it was extensively remodeled in the 19th century. The original church was built around 1015, but nothing remains of the original Romanesque architectural style. The Matthias Church sits in front of the Fisherman’s Bastian, which is the wall with towers that surrounds the Danube River side of Castle Hill. The church is clearly visible from the Pest side of the river, especially with its colorful roof.

As Seen from the Pest Side of the Danube River

The church is named after King Matthias, who ruled Hungary in the 19th century. The church has been the site of several coronations as well as royal weddings, including both of King Matthias’ weddings. Unfortunately, there was actually a wedding at the church when we toured the Buda Castle District, so we weren’t able to go inside. The church itself has had as tumultuous of a history as Hungary itself. The church has had several names before becoming the Matthias Church, including The Church of Mary and The Church of Our Lady. After Hungary was conquered by the Turks, most of the church’s treasures were transferred to Bratislava and the Turks converted it to a mosque. It was later then restored and many of the Gothic features restored.

During World War II, the church was badly damaged by both the Germans and the Soviet Union, so work was done in the 1950’s and 1970’s to again restore it to it original grandeur. In addition to the church, there is also the Holy Trinity Statue that is near the main entrance of the church with wonderful details. Regardless of its history, Matthias Church is certainly one of the most important features in the Buda Castle District. The diamond patterned roof, gargoyles, and the raven with a ring in its mouth make it very interesting to see. Apparently the raven with the ring symbolizes a story of when King Matthias took off his ring and a raven grabbed it and flew off with it. King Matthias then chased down the raven and slew it in order to get his ring back.

Matthias Church and the Holy Trinity Statue

Hungarian Goulash Stew

On June 12, 2019 By Isobar ExpeditionsIn Hungary, Recipes5 Comments

We had goulash a couple of different ways when we were in Budapest and neither of them were anywhere close to what we’d eaten before. In Hungary, goulash is actually a soup with beef, potatoes, and carrots in rich broth. We also found restaurants that offered a heartier version of the dish that is served as a stew, which is what westerners envision when they hear the word goulash. The key to the dish is the paprika, which comes in mild, medium, and hot varieties. For our version of goulash stew, we chose to use hot paprika, which we brought home with us from Budapest. Another thing that we found common in Hungary was to have both potatoes as well as rice, noodles, or dumplings in addition, which helps to soak up all of the flavor of the sauce. We think that the dish turned out to be quite delicious and will certainly make it many times in the future.

INGREDIENTS

2 lbs Beef Bottom Round Roast – trimmed and cut into 2 inch cubes
3 tbsp All Purpose Flour
3 to 4 tbsp Olive Oil
2 Yellow Onions – roughly chopped
2 Peppers (1/2 Red, 1 Green, 1/2 Yellow) – roasted, peeled, and roughly chopped
2 Garlic Cloves – minced
2 tbsp Hot Paprika (3 tbsp if using mild)
2 tbsp Red Wine Vinegar
1 can (15 oz) Whole Tomatoes – hand crushed
5 cups Beef Stock
10 Small Golden Potatoes – cut in half
Salt and Pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat the oil in a Dutch Oven (or stew pot) on the stove to medium-high heat. Add the meat to the oil and generously season with salt and pepper. Sautee the meat until it is browned on all sides. While the meat is cooking, sprinkle it with the flour and continue to stir to even out the flour and remove any lumps. If necessary, add more oil to keep the meat from sticking. Add the onions, garlic, peppers, and paprika and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar, tomatoes, and beef stock to the pot and stir. Be sure to scrape the bottom of the pot to incorporate anything that might have gotten stuck when the meat sautéed. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to low, cover, and let simmer for an hour, stirring occasionally. Taste the broth and add salt and pepper if necessary. Add the potatoes and continue to simmer for an additional 30 minutes or until the potatoes are fork-tender. Serve with rice.