Making the Most of a Visit to La Paz in Bolivia

On August 2, 2023August 2, 2023 By Isobar ExpeditionsIn South America4 Comments

Just going to the unofficial highest capital in the world, La Paz, is a wonderful experience on its own, but there are several things that we recommend in addition to just touring the city. We spent a couple of weeks in Bolivia starting in the central part of the country and then ending our trip by spending several days in La Paz and taking tours outside of La Paz. It was definitely one of the most memorable trips that we’ve taken and part of the reason is the diversity of things that we were able to see in the high altitudes of the Andes mountains. Here are some of our recommendations of places to see when spending time in La Paz.

Valle de Luna – In addition to being the highest capital in the world, La Paz also has a very unique topography. Buildings cover almost every inch of the mountainous hillsides and the heart of the city sits down in a valley. On the outskirts of La Paz is a very interesting place called the Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) with an almost other-worldly landscape. Erosion of the clay in the mountain has resulted in huge spires that cover the area, creating a rugged and stark environment. If the scenery wasn’t surreal enough, there was a flute player that climbed to the top of one of the jagged peaks playing very haunting, traditional music. The sounds of the music echoed throughout the valley, creating a very haunting atmosphere. There were very few people there on the day that we visited, which also added to the overall experience.

Death Road – We went back and forth on whether we would do “Death Road” while we were in Bolivia. Part of it was due to how much time we had while we were in La Paz and part of it was due to the reputation of how dangerous of an adventure it could be. In the end, we decided that we didn’t want to miss out on the experience, so we chose to be another couple who survived this treacherous experience. As we look back, it was definitely a worthwhile, but not without incident. It is a gravel road that is extremely narrow with blind turns and 1,000 meter (3,000 foot) cliffs all along the edge, which is why so many vehicles have plummeted into the jungle killing all of those inside. It certainly isn’t to be taken lightly, but it isn’t as bad these days as it was in the past.

Mi Teleferico (The Cable Cars) – Public transportation using cable cars in the highest capital in the world, La Paz, is certainly quite interesting. When you consider the fact that city is literally built on the sides of a mountain as well as a dense population, getting around the city wasn’t easy until the cable car system was built. Now, instead of winding through narrow streets with steep inclines, people soar over the rooftops to one of the different destinations. There are 3 interconnected lines, just like most transit systems, with red, yellow, and green lines. Although it is a method of transportation that allows citizens to move throughout the city, it is also an incredible way for tourists to truly see this amazing city from a different standpoint.

Copacabana and Lake Titicaca – Much of what we saw during our time in Bolivia was harsh, wild, and rugged. The exception to trekking the Amazon rainforest or scaling the heights of the Andes mountains was our trip to Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Copacabana is a resort destination for tourists and locals alike. Having seen the relatively poor living conditions for most of the citizens of Bolivia, seeing the upscale, boutique hotels on the shore with the boats in the water was quite a juxtaposition to the rest of our experience in Bolivia. The main street of Copacabana is lined with tourist stores and small, family-owned restaurants. We watched as ferries arrived from Peru dropping tourists off to start their journey into the heart of Bolivia. One look at that unpaved main street and there was no mistaking that we were still in Bolivia, despite the relative luxury of the hotel where we were staying.

Mysterious Tiwanaku – Walking through the ruins of Tiwanaku brings both a sense of fascination and yearning for more. This once great capital fills you with a sense of mystery, both because of the seemingly impossible building methods used by the inhabitants over two-thousand years ago as well as the lack of knowledge that we’ll ever have because of the condition of the ruins. Unfortunately, many of the stones that originally made up Tiwanaku are now used in the walls of the homes in the surrounding villages. It has also suffered from a lack of preservation by the Bolivian government, which doesn’t seem to have the same sense of history, despite the fact that it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Waterfall in Coroico – Located in a rainforest in a valley of the Andes mountains is the town of Coroico, Bolivia. We went to the town after driving down “death road” and hiked to a beautiful waterfall and then enjoyed lunch at local restaurant. Considering how tense the drive down the side of the mountain, with its narrow road, thousand foot cliffs, and no guard rails, it was definitely relaxing to go to Coroico. The town square featured a whimsical fountain with a parrot and a colorful church. The highlight of visiting Coroico was definitely the waterfall, which was extremely dramatic and beautiful.

Iconic View from Isla del Sol with Isla de la Luna in the Background and a Ruin in the Foreground

Impressive Ruins on the Island of the Moon

Sun and Moon Islands – Taking a boat out to visit Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) and Isla de la Luna (Island of the Moon) on Lake Titicaca in Bolivia is truly fascinating. The islands have many interesting ruins that pre-date the Inca empire and have been dated back to as far as 300 BC. The ruins are mostly of temples, but people lived on the islands as well. Island of the Sun is the larger of the two islands and there are even hotels where you can spend the night if you would like. If you just want to tour the islands and return to the town of Copacabana on the same day, it will take you about four to six hours.

As you can tell, there is certainly a wide variety of opportunities to see when visiting La Paz. Although it certainly isn’t necessary to do everything that we did during our time in La Paz, we certainly recommend doing as many of them as possible. Also, don’t forget to visit the art district and enjoy food at one of the many wonderful restaurants serving local dishes.

Staying in an Ecolodge Doesn’t Mean Lack of Comfort

On January 11, 2022January 11, 2022 By Isobar ExpeditionsIn South America, Travel Tips2 Comments

Ecolodges are environmentally friendly places to stay and we have had the opportunity to stay in two different ones, both in South America. Since both of these were in isolated locations in the jungle, there were practical reasons for being self-sufficient other than just reducing their impact to the earth. Whether it is through the use of solar panels, rain water collection systems, or wastewater treatment systems, these lodges make sure that they make the most efficient use of every consumable resource. As eco tourism grows in popularity, these lodges will likely spread to more places than just remote locations like the Amazon jungle.

Just because a lodge is eco friendly doesn’t mean that you have to sacrifice all luxury though. There is usually electricity and internet connectivity, although it may not work all of the time. There is also hot water, although we have had mixed results as to how hot or how long it stays hot, but it is good enough. They also have full service kitchens and we had wonderful meals in both of the lodges that we stayed at. Considering how long our days were in the jungle and how tired we were, having any hot meal was a welcome end to the day. And for those of us who like to unwind with a glass of wine at the end of the day, they also offer a limited bar selection.

Grounds of the Eco Lodge in Bolivia with the Rain Barrel

View from the Top of the Lodge Deck in Ecuador

What you gain by staying in these remote locations is a level of serenity that you just don’t find in too many places these days. Instead of hearing the sounds of cars, televisions, or even other people for the most part, you are rewarded with the true sounds of nature. As the lights go out, it is a darkness that you can usually only imagine. Especially at night, you quickly realize that you are just a guest in the homes of the wildlife that surround you. The animals will wander through the manicured landscape with little regard to the fact that you are sleeping inside of the huts on the grounds. Since the lodges are open, you need to be aware that you might share your bedroom with all sorts of bugs and spiders, but that is just part of the experience.

Staying in an ecolodge is not only a wonderful experience, but one that will make you feel good about yourself for not impacting the environment. We wish that we would have had time to just sit on the porch of our huts and just relax while watching all of the nature that surrounded us, but we were there to explore the amazing environment. If you have never stayed at an ecolodge, we would highly recommend that at some point you take the opportunity to do so. It is an experience that you will treasure forever and might even enjoy more than staying at a five-star resort.

Getting Above It All in the Amazon Rainforest

On September 2, 2021September 2, 2021 By Isobar ExpeditionsIn South America1 Comment

We have been fortunate enough to take several trips into the Amazon Rainforest and to say that it is amazing is certainly an understatement. One of the most obvious things about visiting a rainforest is that you are likely to get rained on. Even when it isn’t raining, you are going to experience heat and humidity, so having proper clothing, what we refer to as our “jungle clothes”, is an absolute necessity. The other interesting thing is that the humidity will often cause the clouds to wrap themselves around the treetops and settle into the jungle itself while above them it is more clear.

Because of the pockets of humidity, clouds, and changes in altitude, the views can be both ominous and beautiful. We obviously take lots of photographs during our trips and some of the pictures where we are actually above the clouds and not in an airplane are eerie, yet calming. Whether driving through the mountains or climbing to the top of the canopy, seeing the clouds floating below you is quite fascinating.

Standing with Our Guide, Clouds More Visible than Us

Clouds Drifting Downward Towards the Rainforest

Above the Scarlet Macaws as the Clouds Lift

At the time, of course, the clouds seemed like a bit of nuisance as we’re trying to scan the trees for birds, monkeys, sloths, or other wildlife. Looking back, however, the photographs seem interesting as the clouds contrast the dark jungle foliage. We have shared just a few of our pictures that we took from above the clouds during our time in the Amazon Rainforest.