Settlement Centre in Borgarnes, Iceland

During our stay in Reykjavik in Iceland, we made the hour-long drive to Borgarnes, going through a five kilometer tunnel underneath one of the bays, and enjoyed a wonderful lunch at the restaurant of the Settlement Centre.  We then took the tour through the museum, which consisted of two thirty-minute audio tours that covered the history of how the Vikings first came to populate Iceland as well as their turbulent history once they arrived.  The early history of Iceland is told through Viking Sagas, one of which is the Eglis Saga.  Egill Skalla-Grimsson was a famous Viking and poet whose story is used to provide an understanding of the first people to populate Iceland.  It isn’t just a recanting of his poetry, but is the tale of his life, beliefs, fortunes, and misfortunes.

Witch Display at the Settlement Centre
Tunnel Entrance
Relief Showing a Young Egill
Stories

It is a bloody history filled with mythical tales of beasts, witches, and betrayal.  The Settlement Centre does an excellent job of relating the relationship between Egill and his father, brothers, and mother and how that shaped his manhood. Most importantly, the Viking Sagas correlates the history of the individuals that shaped the creation of the nation and how the country and its culture grew and changed over time to what it is today.

Viking Wardrobe
Depiction of Egill’s Death
Horses Along the Drive
Map of Iceland

We knew that the Vikings were great seamen and that they had conquered the oceans long before the rest of Europe had done so because of their invention of the keel.  One interesting fact that we learned was that they didn’t use the stars to navigate, despite their ability to travel such long distances, eventually leading to the discovery of North America.  The reason, once we learned it, was quite obvious.  There are times of the year when there are no stars visible or not visible for very long due to the length of the days during the summer, so obviously they couldn’t rely on the stars.  Instead, the Vikings learned to navigate by following the birds, the migration paths of the whales, and other patterns that allowed them to travel back and forth between Norway and Iceland with ease.

Viking Ship Replica
Settlement Centre Restaurant
Buffet at the Settlement Centre Restaurant
Viking Mask on Display

Borgarnes is definitely worth visiting and the restaurant at the Settlement Centre is one of the best on the island.  It is a beautiful drive along the coast with stunning views, even as you drive across the bridge that leads you into town.  Even if you’re driving the ring road that goes around the entire island, stopping at Borgarnes is something that is well worth the time.  We hadn’t originally planned on going to Borgarnes, it was one of those last-minute whim decisions and we couldn’t have been happier with the unexpected surprise and the history that we learned while we were there.

Tuscan Chicken with Green Beans and Bacon

We have enjoyed many different styles of chicken dishes throughout our travels. Tuscany is known for its cooking and use of fresh ingredients, so we decided to create a Tuscan style chicken for dinner recently. Butterflying the chicken, technically called spatchcocked, is a great way to reduce the cooking time and still giving a crispy skin. Also, making an herb butter and spreading it underneath the skin and directly on the meat will also make sure that the chicken is moist and tender. We also sautéed some green beans with bacon to have with the chicken, which complimented the chicken extremely well. We decided to cook the chicken in a cast-iron skillet in the oven, but it works equally well on the grill. It truly was a wonderful meal.

Softened Butter with Herbs

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 Whole Chicken – spatchcocked
  • 8 tbsp Unsalted Butter – softened
  • 1 tbsp Fresh Rosemary – chopped
  • 1 tbsp Fresh Thyme – stems removed
  • 1 clove Roasted Garlic – minced (unroasted garlic is fine)
  • Zest of 1 Lemon
  • 1 lb Green Beans – trimmed
  • 4 slices Bacon – cut into 1/2 inch pieces
  • 1 tbsp Vegetable Oil
  • Salt and Pepper to taste
Green Beans and Bacon

INSTRUCTIONS

To spatchcock the chicken, take a sharp knife or scissors and remove the backbone of the chicken by cutting down either side of the spine. Then flip the chicken over so that the interior is exposed and remove the breastbone by sliding the knife between the bone and the meat. This will allow the chicken to lay flat inside of the skillet. In a bowl, combine the butter, rosemary, thyme, garlic, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Using your fingers, separate the skin from the meat and spread about two-thirds of the butter over the breast meat. Spread the final third of butter over the exterior of the skin. Place the chicken in a cast-iron skillet and roast in an oven heated to 500 degrees. Cook the chicken for 30 to 40 minutes or until an internal thermometer reads 165 degrees. While the chicken is cooking, place the green beans in boiling water for about two to three minutes to blanch them and then immediately place them in ice water to shock them and cool them down. Remove the chicken from the oven and let rest for about 15 minutes while the beans are finishing. Heat the vegetable oil to medium-high heat in a skillet and add the green beans, bacon, seasoning the beans with salt and pepper. Sauté for about 10 minutes or until the bacon is crispy. Carve the chicken and serve with the green beans and bacon.

Roasted Chicken
Spatchcocking (Butterflying) the Chicken
Chicken Lays Flat for Even Cooking
Herbs and Butter
The Finished Dinner
Look at How the Herbs Melt Into the Chicken Breast

Spanish Pork Ribs with Potatoes

Pork ribs can be extremely tender and full of flavor, especially when cooked over low heat for several hours. We have tried many different styles of pork ribs over the years from many different places around the world, but this Spanish recipe that uses smoked paprika as its primary seasoning was quite delicious. It is very simple and rustic, but it can certainly be modified to use some additional ingredients like other root vegetables, peppers, or even tomatoes. It would also be equally good with chicken as it was with the pork ribs.

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 lbs Pork Ribs
  • 1 Yellow Onion – chopped
  • 3 Garlic Cloves – crushed and chopped
  • 1 1/2 Potatoes – either fingerling or russet potatoes cut into 1/2 inch peices
  • 1 tbsp Smoked Paprika
  • 2 tbsp Olive Oil
  • Salt and Pepper to taste
Simmering the Ribs and Potatoes

INSTRUCTIONS

Season the ribs generously with salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven, heat the oil to medium-high heat and add the ribs. Brown the ribs on all sides, about 2 minutes per side, then remove the ribs and set aside. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until translucent, being sure to scrape up any “brown bits” from the ribs as you move the onion around the pan. Return the ribs to the pan, add the potatoes, sprinkle with the paprika as well as more salt and pepper and stir around to mix. Cover the with enough hot water to cover the ribs, bring to a simmer, then cover and reduce the heat. Continue cooking at a low simmer for about an hour and a half until the pork is tender and falling off the bone. Enjoy!

Brown the Ribs
Sauté the Onions and Garlic
Sprinkle with Paprika
Spanish Pork Ribs and Potatoes